Tips & Tricks guide to container gardening overview
Contents:
- Repotting your plants- Types of containers and their pros and cons
- Soil temperatures
- Companion plants
- Watering
This is a guide to container gardening, written by and for the community.
What does that mean?
What it means is that this is a collaboration with people in the community that wished to participate. This can go from edits, additions to writing articles. It's meant to be a beginner-friendly guide to people wanting to gain knowledge on how to successfully container garden. This can have many topics, ranging from soil, size of pots to handy tips and tricks that have been learned over the years. The intent is that years and years of knowledge can be shared on here so that people can learn and hone their skills.This is meant to be a "living" article thread, that gets regular updates in either new articles or edits.
How can I help?
I'm glad you asked! All you have to do is message @Mandy Onderwater with your ideas or edits. Together we can apply and upload edits and articles. You can also add to an idea list, so people might feel inspired to help out and write a section. You do not need to have a fully completed article! This is why it's a "living article thread", we will upload and update as we go. This means nothing gets left behind or forgotten. We can always edit and improve as we go, allowing people to see and learn from what we have in the meantime.Whilst the article thread will be uploaded under one name, your name can be added to the top or bottom of the article. This way people understand who wrote it, if so desired.
Images, when not made ourselves, were gathered from (supposed) copyright free locations. If you see one that must be a mistake, let us know.
Information placed here might be subjected to copyright.
Information placed here might be subjected to copyright.
Repotting your plants
Repotting your plants won't be an uncommon concept if you container garden. Plans can outgrow their pots, requiring a bigger pot (or to be planted in the ground), otherwise they can become stunted or in some cases even die. Luckily there's this handy thread to help keep you in check of what's going on.
You often notice your plant's growth can be stunted when it needs to be repotted, on top of that it might show surface roots. If you gently pull the plant from it's pot and you see more roots than soil, it's definitely rootbound. What this means is that your plant's roots are constricted and have nowhere else to go. It's a sign of needing more space on order to grow more roots and have a healthier plant. If your plant is on the ground you might notice roots coming from the drainage holes too, usually this is also a sign of needing to be repotted.
If the plant is really stuck and has a weak stem I like to turn the plant upside down, resting the roots on my hand, taking the weight off of the stem. It's normal to lose some soil while doing this. Gently squeeze, tap and shake the pot until it comes off. It really struggling I like to run some water through it to wash out soil to make more wiggle room to remove the pot. In rare cases you might have to break the pot to safely get the plant out. Don't be afraid to do what's necessary.
It's usually recommended to go only a size or two up in pots, meaning it's only a little bigger than it's previous pot. Use fresh potting soil, filling only the bottom, leaving enough space to put the new plant on top of. You can also help dig a little hole so it fits in better. Don't forget to fill around your plant until the pot is full, leaving about 2cm at the top. You leave this gap so water doesn't spill out when watering. This also helps prevent washing soil out from the top.
You can't always fully avoid transplant shock, but you can do your best to prevent it - or if needed fix it. You can aid your plant during repotting by watering it half an hour to an hour before repotting. Try to disturb the roots as little as possible and try to avoid transplanting in direct sunlight. Once transplanted water heavily, so the soil and the plant settles properly.
After repotting, leave your plant be for a while. Repotting is stressful to the plant, and it needs time to 'recover'.
As you can probably tell, I accidentally overfilled this pot. It did overflow when watered until I took out the excess soil.
When to repot?
Repotting is relatively easy! Though when to repot can differ on what size pot you have grown them in. You can grow your plant in seed cells or straight into a larger pot. Repotting can also be affected to what season you grow in. In colder climates it's often recommended to wait until spring, where the plant comes out of it's dormant stare and will start to grow again, needing more space for it's roots; whereas in the tropics it can be done year-round, depending on when the plants are active. A dormant plant's growth is limited, meaning you don't usually need to repot it.You often notice your plant's growth can be stunted when it needs to be repotted, on top of that it might show surface roots. If you gently pull the plant from it's pot and you see more roots than soil, it's definitely rootbound. What this means is that your plant's roots are constricted and have nowhere else to go. It's a sign of needing more space on order to grow more roots and have a healthier plant. If your plant is on the ground you might notice roots coming from the drainage holes too, usually this is also a sign of needing to be repotted.
How to repot?
This is easy as well, though there are many techniques. You have to take the plant out of it's pot, don't worry if it's a little stuck! Most pots are made of plastic, which means they are slightly pliable. You can turn the plant to the side and gently squeeze on all sides to loosen the pot so it slides off easily. Tapping the pot can also help in loosening it up. Don't worry! You can gently hold the plant by it's stem so you don't accidentally drop it whilst repotting.If the plant is really stuck and has a weak stem I like to turn the plant upside down, resting the roots on my hand, taking the weight off of the stem. It's normal to lose some soil while doing this. Gently squeeze, tap and shake the pot until it comes off. It really struggling I like to run some water through it to wash out soil to make more wiggle room to remove the pot. In rare cases you might have to break the pot to safely get the plant out. Don't be afraid to do what's necessary.
It's usually recommended to go only a size or two up in pots, meaning it's only a little bigger than it's previous pot. Use fresh potting soil, filling only the bottom, leaving enough space to put the new plant on top of. You can also help dig a little hole so it fits in better. Don't forget to fill around your plant until the pot is full, leaving about 2cm at the top. You leave this gap so water doesn't spill out when watering. This also helps prevent washing soil out from the top.
What is transplant shock?
Transplant shock is where a plant got stressed during repotting. This is often caused due to harm to the roots whilst repotting. This is why we try to take utmost care to not damage the plant whilst repotting.You can't always fully avoid transplant shock, but you can do your best to prevent it - or if needed fix it. You can aid your plant during repotting by watering it half an hour to an hour before repotting. Try to disturb the roots as little as possible and try to avoid transplanting in direct sunlight. Once transplanted water heavily, so the soil and the plant settles properly.
After repotting, leave your plant be for a while. Repotting is stressful to the plant, and it needs time to 'recover'.
Repotting with pictures:
As you can probably tell, I accidentally overfilled this pot. It did overflow when watered until I took out the excess soil.
Types of containers and their pros and cons
What container you use can have a great difference in how your plant will act. Some plants will prefer one container over the other.
Gardening in containers can also be a great option for those still learning how to garden as you can move them around and experiment more easily.
Also, one important thing to keep in mind is leeching. Whilst this rarely affects inedible plants (often decorative/flowers), it might be something you will want to keep in mind when growing edible plants. Certain pots aren't made for growing food in, and can contain harmful chemicals that can slowly leech into your plants.
Pros: heat up quickly, cheap option, readily available, do well in shaded positions, lightweight, good drainage, easy to drill more holes
Cons: can overheat, little insulation, sun damaged easily
Pros: visually appealing, come in many sizes, easy to drill more (drainage) holes, relatively cheap
Cons: little insulation, possible leeching, can be sun damaged
Pros: last long, visually appealing, can help retain heat
Cons: prone to cracking if frozen, lightweight pots chip easily, breakable, hard to repot from, can stain, can be too porous, concrete can leech lime (toxic to some plants)
Pros: good insulator, lasts very long, environmentally friendly, even faux stone planters can look 'real', visually appealing
Cons: breakable, heavy
Pros: visually appealing, DiY-able, durable, doesn't break easily, may require maintenance
Cons: some wood treatment can be toxic and leech, eventually degrades/rots, can attract pets
Pros: attractive, durable, age well
Cons: can rust (especially in warm, humid areas), can leech toxins, non-porous (bad/no drainage), can be heavy
Pros: good insulation, cheap, lightweight, easy to clean
Cons: unattractive, can leech when degrading or damaged
Pros: self-watering, good for plants that like 'wet feet', reduces frequency of watering
Cons: can cause waterlogging, usually unsuitable for larger plants/trees
Pros: inexpensive, allows for vertical designs, available in a wide variety, available in self-watering designs
Cons: heat and dry quickly, can drip water on everything below
Pros: cheap, can be made UV resistant, very compact when empty, good drainage, great variety
Cons: can break, can lean, generally seen as a temporary container
Pros: attractive, can weigh down light pots to avoid them falling over, easy to 'repot'
Cons: only for decorative value
Do you have more knowledge on this? Kindly send your information to @Mandy Onderwater . Corrections, additions and questions are always welcome!
Gardening in containers can also be a great option for those still learning how to garden as you can move them around and experiment more easily.
Also, one important thing to keep in mind is leeching. Whilst this rarely affects inedible plants (often decorative/flowers), it might be something you will want to keep in mind when growing edible plants. Certain pots aren't made for growing food in, and can contain harmful chemicals that can slowly leech into your plants.
Black plastic (nursery)
Black pots, most commonly used in nurseries, are a great versatile pot. They are light weight and easy to use. They also come in a large variety of sizes, to suit your plant's needs. They usually also come with more drainage holes than, for example, terracotta pots. This helps them drain more easily.Pros: heat up quickly, cheap option, readily available, do well in shaded positions, lightweight, good drainage, easy to drill more holes
Cons: can overheat, little insulation, sun damaged easily
Coloured plastic
Coloured pots are a great addition to your garden. They can make the area look more lively with their colours, and you can mix and match your plants with them. They can be more appealing to the eye than their black counterparts, and might be more "fun" if you want to teach children how to garden. Lighter coloured pots also tend to heat up less quickly than darker colours.Pros: visually appealing, come in many sizes, easy to drill more (drainage) holes, relatively cheap
Cons: little insulation, possible leeching, can be sun damaged
Terracotta, ceramic and cement
These are often the more visually appealing pots. They usually have a higher durability than their plastic counterparts, as sun damage isn't as much of a thing anymore. They are often porous which 'can' assist with evaporating water on all sides. Sadly they often come with only one drainage hole, and drilling more holes can be rather tough if you don't want to damage the pot. They do come in more colours than their stone counterpart. Clay (and ceramic) pots have been used for thousands of years, trusted and true.Pros: last long, visually appealing, can help retain heat
Cons: prone to cracking if frozen, lightweight pots chip easily, breakable, hard to repot from, can stain, can be too porous, concrete can leech lime (toxic to some plants)
Stone
Stone is a very sturdy and often appealing container. They can have loads of character, you won't lieky find in any other pot. They last very long and usually age well, only adding to it's character. They are, however, more expensive and very heavy. They do have cheaper faux stone options, which are lighter.Pros: good insulator, lasts very long, environmentally friendly, even faux stone planters can look 'real', visually appealing
Cons: breakable, heavy
Wood
Wooden containers can have loads of character and can be very attractive. They are easy to DiY and are relatively cheap. Downsides might include that they require upkeep and will slowly degrade over time. If treated right they can last for many years to come. They can be heavy, especially if wet.Pros: visually appealing, DiY-able, durable, doesn't break easily, may require maintenance
Cons: some wood treatment can be toxic and leech, eventually degrades/rots, can attract pets
Metal
Metal can be made in many ways, shapes and forms. They can have very attractive looks, and some get prettier as they age. These pots are most commonlu used as decorative planters. They are very ruable and don't chip, crack or break. They might dent though.Pros: attractive, durable, age well
Cons: can rust (especially in warm, humid areas), can leech toxins, non-porous (bad/no drainage), can be heavy
Polystyrene
Polystyrene is a lesser common pot, as it doesn't usually last very long in warmer climates. It can also be fragile as it can slowly crumble away when you touch it.Pros: good insulation, cheap, lightweight, easy to clean
Cons: unattractive, can leech when degrading or damaged
Self-watering
These pots often have a reservoir at the base of the pot and can be handy in hard to reach locations, like hanging pots. They can also help retain water for longer in places that tend to dry out quickly.Pros: self-watering, good for plants that like 'wet feet', reduces frequency of watering
Cons: can cause waterlogging, usually unsuitable for larger plants/trees
Hanging and wall mounted
These options allow you to make the most of your vertical space and can have a decorative touch.Pros: inexpensive, allows for vertical designs, available in a wide variety, available in self-watering designs
Cons: heat and dry quickly, can drip water on everything below
Grow bags
Grow bags come in many shapes and forms, some even with additional functions like a flap to pick rootstock from the bottom. They are lightweight and relatively cheap, especially for the sizes they come in. They also can come in upside-down grow bags, which has it's own pros and cons.Pros: cheap, can be made UV resistant, very compact when empty, good drainage, great variety
Cons: can break, can lean, generally seen as a temporary container
Bonus: Cachepots/double pots
Cache pots are a decorative outer pot, that you place (usually a plastic) pot inside of. They are decorative ornamentals, that can hide unattractive and ordinary pots.Pros: attractive, can weigh down light pots to avoid them falling over, easy to 'repot'
Cons: only for decorative value
Do you have more knowledge on this? Kindly send your information to @Mandy Onderwater . Corrections, additions and questions are always welcome!
Soil temperatures
One thing people don't always think of is soil temperatures and how it can affect your plants.
The temperature of your potting mix can be much higher than the ambient temperature. It can easily be 10 or more degrees higher. High soil temperatures (even in the mid-30's) for a prolonged time can be damaging, hence why we should take care in keeping our soil cool.
The opposite can also be true; if you live in a cold climate, the ground may take a much longer time to warm up than the ambient air.
Shadecloth is a versatile item, which can help in both protecting your plant and soil from the harshness and heat from the sun. This is a great option for raised garden beds or to expand area of shade so you have more areas to work with. Shadecloth can also be adjusted easily with the seasons, and removed once it's not needed anymore. You can also locate the cloth in the right position, where it cuts out the sun during noon, but allows for morning and evening sun.
There are many types of mulch, each with their own properties. Straw and cane mulch are great insulating mulches that can assist in overwintering plants, and also keep the soil cool in summer. Grass clippings can help in warming soil up as they break down quickly, raising temperature as they decompose. Leaves can also be used as a layer on top of the soil, helping to insulate and retain soil temperature. Black mulch attracts sunlight and thusly heat up the soil faster.
I mostly recommend using what is available to you in your area. Whereas we have cane mulch readily available, you might not and will have to look for options you have. Each mulch has their own benefits, so look for what helps your situation.
Black plastic pots are the most common around, and are often seen used in nurseries. They are more prone to overheating. It's recommended to repot plants you have bought, but if you can't a way to help insulate is by using a larger (often a decorative and/or ceramic) pot. You place your plant, plastic pot and all inside, using the cover pot to create an airspace that helps insulate your soil. The outer pot can help insulate against both winter and summer temperatures.
[@Grandmother Goose added:] When a dry heatwave (or just summer in some places) is causing pot plants to dry out much too fast, instead of watering them 4 times a day which can be too much to keep up with for most people, they can be cooled down and kept moist by putting the pot into a much larger pot with regular dirt, sand, or straw packed between the two pots, then add extra mulch on top of both. The second larger pot will not only insulate and keep the inner pot cooler, it'll also absorb some excess water which can then wick back to the inner pot without being so wet as to cause the plant's roots to rot. The same trick can also be used in winter in cooler climates to help keep things like bananas and galangal alive by insulating their pot and thus their roots from the cold, but in that case straw is king because it'll create it's own warmth as it decomposes.
Do keep in mind that if your plant's roots have already been damaged, it might not be able to absorb enough water so survive.
Do you have more knowledge on this? Kindly send your information to @Mandy Onderwater . Corrections, additions and questions are always welcome!
The temperature of your potting mix can be much higher than the ambient temperature. It can easily be 10 or more degrees higher. High soil temperatures (even in the mid-30's) for a prolonged time can be damaging, hence why we should take care in keeping our soil cool.
The opposite can also be true; if you live in a cold climate, the ground may take a much longer time to warm up than the ambient air.
How to control potted soil temperatures
Keeping your soil in the right temperatures can be done in many ways, and your preference can differ per situation. Also note that each plant may have different heat ranges, so not all plants necessarily need to be protected in the same way.Shade
Shading your pots can help keep the soil temperatures down. In some situations you can simply move the pots in a low location where it's shaded. Do bear in mind that your plant might need a certain amount of sunlight. In some cases you only need to avoid the hottest parts of the day (usually around midday).Shadecloth is a versatile item, which can help in both protecting your plant and soil from the harshness and heat from the sun. This is a great option for raised garden beds or to expand area of shade so you have more areas to work with. Shadecloth can also be adjusted easily with the seasons, and removed once it's not needed anymore. You can also locate the cloth in the right position, where it cuts out the sun during noon, but allows for morning and evening sun.
Mulch
Mulch can help in many ways. It can help retain soil moisture, minimize weeds, but also helps insulate your pots. The insulative layer means that the soil heats up slower and in cold climates is can also mean it helps retain some warmth.There are many types of mulch, each with their own properties. Straw and cane mulch are great insulating mulches that can assist in overwintering plants, and also keep the soil cool in summer. Grass clippings can help in warming soil up as they break down quickly, raising temperature as they decompose. Leaves can also be used as a layer on top of the soil, helping to insulate and retain soil temperature. Black mulch attracts sunlight and thusly heat up the soil faster.
I mostly recommend using what is available to you in your area. Whereas we have cane mulch readily available, you might not and will have to look for options you have. Each mulch has their own benefits, so look for what helps your situation.
Containers
Plastic containers, in particular black plastic pots, tend to heat up much quicker than pots made of materials such as terracotta, concrete or stone. A thicker pot can also help insulate for longer than a thin-walled pot.Black plastic pots are the most common around, and are often seen used in nurseries. They are more prone to overheating. It's recommended to repot plants you have bought, but if you can't a way to help insulate is by using a larger (often a decorative and/or ceramic) pot. You place your plant, plastic pot and all inside, using the cover pot to create an airspace that helps insulate your soil. The outer pot can help insulate against both winter and summer temperatures.
[@Grandmother Goose added:] When a dry heatwave (or just summer in some places) is causing pot plants to dry out much too fast, instead of watering them 4 times a day which can be too much to keep up with for most people, they can be cooled down and kept moist by putting the pot into a much larger pot with regular dirt, sand, or straw packed between the two pots, then add extra mulch on top of both. The second larger pot will not only insulate and keep the inner pot cooler, it'll also absorb some excess water which can then wick back to the inner pot without being so wet as to cause the plant's roots to rot. The same trick can also be used in winter in cooler climates to help keep things like bananas and galangal alive by insulating their pot and thus their roots from the cold, but in that case straw is king because it'll create it's own warmth as it decomposes.
Watering
Watering your plants can also help bring the temperature down. When the water evaporates, it often helps to bring down the soil temperature. This is often best done in combination with mulch and/or shade.Do keep in mind that if your plant's roots have already been damaged, it might not be able to absorb enough water so survive.
Do you have more knowledge on this? Kindly send your information to @Mandy Onderwater . Corrections, additions and questions are always welcome!
Companion plants
Companion planting is where you plant multiple different plants together as they provide benefits to one or eachother. This can range from nutrients, to pest resisting, attracting pollinaters and much more.
Companion planting sadly has a fairly limited amount of scientifical information. This means that there can be a lot of hit-and-miss. Regardless of that, whilst it may not always reap benefits, it's not bad to try.
The effectiveness can also differ between species.
Apple
Nasturtium - repels codling moth
Apricot
Basil - repels insects
Asparagus
Basil - improves flavour
Calendula - deters asparagus beetles
Parsley - improves flavour
Petunia - deters asparagus beetles
Tomatoes - deters asparagus beetles
Basil
Purslane - provides soil shade
Bean
Corn - provides support
Lovage - insect repeller
Rosemary - Insect repeller
Sunflower - provides support and shade
Broccoli
Nasturtium - attracts caterpillars away (plant nearby)
Cabbage
Dill - attracts beneficial insects
Garlic - repels cabbage white butterfly
Nasturtium - attracts caterpillars away (plant nearby), deters beetles and aphids
Sage - helps repel cabbage moths
Carrot
Chives - improves growth and flavour, deters aphids, mites and flies
Leeks - repel carrot rust fly
Rosemary - repels carrot fly
Sage - repels carrot fly
Corn
Beans - provides nitrogen
Dill - deters aphids and mites
Spinach - provides soil shade
Sunflower - structure and windbreak
Courgette / Zucchini
Buckwheat - attracts pest predators
Nasturium - deters aphids and whiteflies
Cucumber
Dill - deters aphids and mites
Nasturtium - improves growth and flavour, deters aphids and beetles
Oregano - deters pest
Radish - repel cucumber beetle and flea beetle
Sunflower - provides support and shade
Kale
Nasturtium - attracts caterpillars away (plant nearby)
Lettuce
Basil - improve flavour and growth
Chives - deters aphids and pests
Garlic - deters aphids and pests
Onion - deters aphids and pests
Poached egg plant (flower) - attracts hoverflies which control aphids
Zinnia - attracts pollinators, provides shade
Onion
Marigold - reduces egg laying of onion maggot fly
Pea
Chives - deters aphids
Alyssum - attracts pollinaters
Pepper
Basil - improves growth and flavour, repels insects
Marjoram - repels insects
Oregano - repels insects
Potato
Bean - improves size of tuber
Catmint - repels potato beetle (but can bring cats)
Coriander - protects against aphids, spider mites and potato beetle
Horseradis - repels potato beetles
Marigold - suppresses weeds
Pumpkin
Buckwheat - attracts pest predators
Nasturtium - deters pumpkin and squash beetles
Oregano - deters beetles and root nematodes
Radish
Chervil - imrpoves growth and flavour
Peas - provides nitrogen
Spinach
Beans - provides shade
Coriander - repels insects
Oregano - repels insects
Peas - provides shade
Rosemary - repels insects
Strawberry
Borage - enhances flavour and vigour, increases yield
Tomato
Asparagus - repels nematodes
Basil - can repel and disorient certain pests, can attract bees, improves growth and flavour of tomatoes
Borage - attracts pollinaters, repels hornworms
Calendula - deters pests
Lemon balm - improves flavour and growth, repels insects
Marigold - deters nematodes
Parsley - attracts beneficial insects, improves flavour
Thyme - reduces egg laying by armyworms
Honourable mentions
Mint - deters aphids, ants and flea beetles
not in the list because if can be a very aggresive grower. Keep seperate in a pot nearby
Tansy - deters ants, beetles, bugs
not in the list because it can be very poisonous
Companion planting sadly has a fairly limited amount of scientifical information. This means that there can be a lot of hit-and-miss. Regardless of that, whilst it may not always reap benefits, it's not bad to try.
The effectiveness can also differ between species.
Apple
Nasturtium - repels codling moth
Apricot
Basil - repels insects
Asparagus
Basil - improves flavour
Calendula - deters asparagus beetles
Parsley - improves flavour
Petunia - deters asparagus beetles
Tomatoes - deters asparagus beetles
Basil
Purslane - provides soil shade
Bean
Corn - provides support
Lovage - insect repeller
Rosemary - Insect repeller
Sunflower - provides support and shade
Broccoli
Nasturtium - attracts caterpillars away (plant nearby)
Cabbage
Dill - attracts beneficial insects
Garlic - repels cabbage white butterfly
Nasturtium - attracts caterpillars away (plant nearby), deters beetles and aphids
Sage - helps repel cabbage moths
Carrot
Chives - improves growth and flavour, deters aphids, mites and flies
Leeks - repel carrot rust fly
Rosemary - repels carrot fly
Sage - repels carrot fly
Corn
Beans - provides nitrogen
Dill - deters aphids and mites
Spinach - provides soil shade
Sunflower - structure and windbreak
Courgette / Zucchini
Buckwheat - attracts pest predators
Nasturium - deters aphids and whiteflies
Cucumber
Dill - deters aphids and mites
Nasturtium - improves growth and flavour, deters aphids and beetles
Oregano - deters pest
Radish - repel cucumber beetle and flea beetle
Sunflower - provides support and shade
Kale
Nasturtium - attracts caterpillars away (plant nearby)
Lettuce
Basil - improve flavour and growth
Chives - deters aphids and pests
Garlic - deters aphids and pests
Onion - deters aphids and pests
Poached egg plant (flower) - attracts hoverflies which control aphids
Zinnia - attracts pollinators, provides shade
Onion
Marigold - reduces egg laying of onion maggot fly
Pea
Chives - deters aphids
Alyssum - attracts pollinaters
Pepper
Basil - improves growth and flavour, repels insects
Marjoram - repels insects
Oregano - repels insects
Potato
Bean - improves size of tuber
Catmint - repels potato beetle (but can bring cats)
Coriander - protects against aphids, spider mites and potato beetle
Horseradis - repels potato beetles
Marigold - suppresses weeds
Pumpkin
Buckwheat - attracts pest predators
Nasturtium - deters pumpkin and squash beetles
Oregano - deters beetles and root nematodes
Radish
Chervil - imrpoves growth and flavour
Peas - provides nitrogen
Spinach
Beans - provides shade
Coriander - repels insects
Oregano - repels insects
Peas - provides shade
Rosemary - repels insects
Strawberry
Borage - enhances flavour and vigour, increases yield
Tomato
Asparagus - repels nematodes
Basil - can repel and disorient certain pests, can attract bees, improves growth and flavour of tomatoes
Borage - attracts pollinaters, repels hornworms
Calendula - deters pests
Lemon balm - improves flavour and growth, repels insects
Marigold - deters nematodes
Parsley - attracts beneficial insects, improves flavour
Thyme - reduces egg laying by armyworms
Honourable mentions
Mint - deters aphids, ants and flea beetles
not in the list because if can be a very aggresive grower. Keep seperate in a pot nearby
Tansy - deters ants, beetles, bugs
not in the list because it can be very poisonous
Watering
Every plant you may own needs water. How much and how often can differ greatly per situation and plant. Indoor plants tend to need less water than outdoor plants. Water can evaporate faster when in full sun, rather than in shade. And other factors can change what your plants require.
How does soil affect watering
Some soils hold on to water better than others. Sand, for example, does not hold onto water or nutrients very well and they tend to flow right through it. Clay, however, holds onto water and nutrients and drains very slowly, often creating waterlogged areas.
Plants usually don't like one extreme over the other, preferring a free draining soil, that still holds onto some water and nutrients. Claylike soils, whilst requiring much less water than sand, can create a situation where it's too wet. This can cause root rot, which is a hidden killer of many plants. A little known fact by new gardeners is that roots actually need oxygen as well. Naturally the ground has little pockets called soil pores, containing air and water.
Ideally you want a good potting mix that's light and fluffy. Free draining is a must.
Indoors VS Outdoors
The water requirements can differ greatly when growing indoors versus outdoors. Many factors exist that change what suit your situation best.
Indoor plants tend to need less water as there is less airflow and sunlight, lessening evaporation of water from the soil. One of your main struggles is ensuring your plants get enough light and don't get overwatered. Of course there are many handy tools to help with this. For sunlight there are grow lights, and for water you can invest in a soil moisture meter. Another way of testing whether your plant needs water is by sticking your finger into the soil. Depending on your pot, generally you stick your finger in until about the second knuckle and then pull it out again. If your finger comes out clean, it generally means the soil is dry and could use some water. If some soil sticks to your finger, it means the soil is still damp and does not yet require water. This technique suits both in and outdoor.
Your outdoor plants may require more frequent testing, and also depend on the weather outside, whereas climate indoors tends to be more controlled. On hot summer days your plant will require more water than on cool or winter days. Potted plants outdoor may even require water multiple times a day because it can dry out fairly quickly, compared to the ground as plant roots can dig deeper for water.
A big recommendation is to ensure your pots have drainage holes, that way you are less likely to overwater as it can drain out from the bottom.
What time of the day
Opinions vary. It truly does depend on your situation and you'll learn over time what suits best. For most gardeners it's safe to say that watering in the morning is better than watering later in the day.
Watering in the morning
Pros: Allows water to soak deeply into the soil, with little water lost to evaporation. Also allows water to dry if it was on leaves. Allows plants to absorb water before it gets too hot.
Cons: -
Watering around midday
Pros: It's better to water a thirsty plant than to not water it at all.
Cons: More rapid evaporation. Can attract diseases and pests.
Watering at night
Pros: Next to no evaporation. Allows plants to get a good, long drink to recover
Cons: Wet soil can lead to root rot. Wet leaves can lead to diseases and more pests.
For example, here in tropical QLD, Australia, in Summer I tend to water my plants in the morning and at night. Watering in the morning makes that my plants can handle the heat without shrivelling up and dying under the scorching summer sun. Then a water at night helps them to have a good long drink after the day sun has completely dried out the soil again. On days where this isn't an option, I like to put my pots in saucers and water my plants until the saucers are full too. This works especially for smaller pots that dry out too quickly in hot, dry circumstances. On rainy and cooler days I will remove/empty the saucers, so the soil doesn't get boggy.
How much water
The amount can really change per plant. Some people like to go by the "inch rule" where you take the width of the pot and add enough water to fill up to an inch.
Personally, I would recommend a pot with drainage holes for beginners. Add a saucer underneath and water your plant. If there is a puddle in the saucer, you have watered too much. Adjust by watering less a next time. Over time this will become second nature. Ideally you want the soil to be moist all the way through, without water seeping out.
Do you have more knowledge on this? Kindly send your information to @Mandy Onderwater . Corrections, additions and questions are always welcome!
How does soil affect watering
Some soils hold on to water better than others. Sand, for example, does not hold onto water or nutrients very well and they tend to flow right through it. Clay, however, holds onto water and nutrients and drains very slowly, often creating waterlogged areas.
Plants usually don't like one extreme over the other, preferring a free draining soil, that still holds onto some water and nutrients. Claylike soils, whilst requiring much less water than sand, can create a situation where it's too wet. This can cause root rot, which is a hidden killer of many plants. A little known fact by new gardeners is that roots actually need oxygen as well. Naturally the ground has little pockets called soil pores, containing air and water.
Ideally you want a good potting mix that's light and fluffy. Free draining is a must.
Indoors VS Outdoors
The water requirements can differ greatly when growing indoors versus outdoors. Many factors exist that change what suit your situation best.
Indoor plants tend to need less water as there is less airflow and sunlight, lessening evaporation of water from the soil. One of your main struggles is ensuring your plants get enough light and don't get overwatered. Of course there are many handy tools to help with this. For sunlight there are grow lights, and for water you can invest in a soil moisture meter. Another way of testing whether your plant needs water is by sticking your finger into the soil. Depending on your pot, generally you stick your finger in until about the second knuckle and then pull it out again. If your finger comes out clean, it generally means the soil is dry and could use some water. If some soil sticks to your finger, it means the soil is still damp and does not yet require water. This technique suits both in and outdoor.
Your outdoor plants may require more frequent testing, and also depend on the weather outside, whereas climate indoors tends to be more controlled. On hot summer days your plant will require more water than on cool or winter days. Potted plants outdoor may even require water multiple times a day because it can dry out fairly quickly, compared to the ground as plant roots can dig deeper for water.
A big recommendation is to ensure your pots have drainage holes, that way you are less likely to overwater as it can drain out from the bottom.
What time of the day
Opinions vary. It truly does depend on your situation and you'll learn over time what suits best. For most gardeners it's safe to say that watering in the morning is better than watering later in the day.
Watering in the morning
Pros: Allows water to soak deeply into the soil, with little water lost to evaporation. Also allows water to dry if it was on leaves. Allows plants to absorb water before it gets too hot.
Cons: -
Watering around midday
Pros: It's better to water a thirsty plant than to not water it at all.
Cons: More rapid evaporation. Can attract diseases and pests.
Watering at night
Pros: Next to no evaporation. Allows plants to get a good, long drink to recover
Cons: Wet soil can lead to root rot. Wet leaves can lead to diseases and more pests.
For example, here in tropical QLD, Australia, in Summer I tend to water my plants in the morning and at night. Watering in the morning makes that my plants can handle the heat without shrivelling up and dying under the scorching summer sun. Then a water at night helps them to have a good long drink after the day sun has completely dried out the soil again. On days where this isn't an option, I like to put my pots in saucers and water my plants until the saucers are full too. This works especially for smaller pots that dry out too quickly in hot, dry circumstances. On rainy and cooler days I will remove/empty the saucers, so the soil doesn't get boggy.
How much water
The amount can really change per plant. Some people like to go by the "inch rule" where you take the width of the pot and add enough water to fill up to an inch.
Personally, I would recommend a pot with drainage holes for beginners. Add a saucer underneath and water your plant. If there is a puddle in the saucer, you have watered too much. Adjust by watering less a next time. Over time this will become second nature. Ideally you want the soil to be moist all the way through, without water seeping out.
Do you have more knowledge on this? Kindly send your information to @Mandy Onderwater . Corrections, additions and questions are always welcome!
