Sharpening Hand Tools

Codger

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Hi Kasalia
The general principles are similar for most steel cutting tools.
There are two types of cutting action in loppers and pruners. Both types have only one cutting blade which is usually convex on bypass tools and straight edged on anvil types..
Bypass secateurs and loppers have one flat side on the cutting blade. Do not put any bevel on the flat side at all. The other side of the cutting blade should be sharpened to restore the original angle then a secondary slightly (one or two degrees) more obtuse bevel should be made along the cutting edge much like is often done with a chisel. The reason for this is that this angle is less prone to damage than a very fine edge which may fold over or chip. Sharpen until you can feel a burr along the full length of the cutting edge. This is the only way of knowing when the edge is obtained. Remove the burr by proving the edge as you would when sharpening a knife.
If you want to see what is happening use a black marker pen to colour the blade so you can see the progress.
I use a special small diamond sharpener for my secateurs but any abrasive stone will do. On larger loppers in poor shape you can even start with a fine file and then progress to a finer sharpener.
The concave (usually) jaw of bypass tools just needs to be restored to remove any irregularities but is not so important as long as the inner surface is flat.
With very neglected bypass tools it is best to first dismantle them and grind the flat side of the cutting blade and the bypass part back to flat by lapping them on a flat surface. I use a piece of abrasive paper laid on on a piece of plate glass.
After sharpening both sides clean, re-assemble, lightly oil and adjust until the blades just move freely. Better quality tools will have a mechanism to lock this adjustment in place.
Anvil type loppers and secateurs have a straight cutting edge which should be restored. Generally these blades have a V profile and should be sharpened like a knife and again with a slighter more obtuse angle on the very edge both sides. Once again sharpen until you can feel a burr along the entire length of the cutting edge and remove the burr. The other flat jaw of these tools is not critical as long as it is fairly flat. Because anvil style tools are usually intended for cutting tougher material don't make the cutting edge too acute or it will be fairly easily damaged.
Motorized hedge trimmers are a different story altogether. They can be hand sharpened with a fine file but it is a tedious process as there are dozens of cutting edges and it is probably best left to a professional who can sharpen it in a jig with an electric grinder.
Hope this helps. Would have liked to post a diagram or two but that is beyond my ability.
 

Codger

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That sharpener looks handy. It should simplify the task.
My diamond sharpener is just flat like a small file.
 

Mark

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It certainly does make cutting easier and cleaner when the garden tools are sharp.

I've been guilty at times of persisting with tools that need a good sharpening (lazy me) but I always like working with them newly sharpened - so much better :)
 
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